10 July 2010

Az-Zait, Seville, Spain



Everything is there, except for the taste.
This thought crossed my mind after the 3 first courses of the 8-course tasting menu we had at Az-Zait. And I was puzzled, as this restaurant located in the charming Plaza San Lorenzo is voted 2nd best in Seville by Tripadvisor's contributors, and has even been compared to the cuisine of Heston Blumenthal.
Indeed, there was something experimental about the dishes, but it takes more than original combinations, sparkling sugar and good presentation to create a great dish. It needs to taste good first, without giving the feeling that the chef has tried too hard to create an unconventional dish. Actually, the following courses were far better, and the best achievements were more traditional dishes.


 
 

Pine nuts with pineapple and liquor shots

 Starter 1: Pickled mussels and lemon sorbet

 Starter 2: Cigarette biscuit filled with chorizo

 Starter 3: Ajo blanco with red wine granizado 
and caramelized grapes (cold almond soup)

 Starter 4: Caramelized foie gras

The pickled mussels were nicely presented with the home-made lemon sorbet in a tin. Without being exciting, it tasted fine.
We did not like the second starter, the deep-fried cigarette biscuit was far too oily and we hardly noticed the taste of the chorizo.
Despite a bland taste, the cold almond soup was a very funny experience, as it was sprinkled with sparkling sugar that reminded us of the popping candies of our childhood.
The caramelized foie gras was the first dish we really enjoyed. First it was beautiful, but the foie gras was also perfectly cooked and melting in the mouth.

Main course 1: Scallops with zucchini in liquorice sauce

Main course 2: Beef fillet with mash potato

The two main courses were brillant. Both scallops and beef were perfectly cooked and seasonned. We understood then the reason why this restaurant had received rave reviews.

 Lemon sorbet

As the portions are more generous at Az-Zait than what is usually offered in tasting menus, we had to pass on the cheese platter, and were offered a lemon sorbet instead.

 
 Dessert: Caramel tart with sorbet

The "deconstructed" caramel tart was gorgeous, and even Mister Sardine who does not have a sweet palate finished his.


 


Cost: 4-course menu: 31.50 EUR / 8-course menu: 46.50 EUR
A la carte: Starter: 8-13 EUR / Main course: 18-21 EUR / Dessert: 5-7 EUR
Wine: We were recommended an excellent bottle red Rioja wine: Pinturas, Crianza 2007 at 30 EUR

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